British climbers tom randall and pete whittaker have carried out the first pinkpoint ascent of century crack in the canyonlands, usa. In 2011, tom randall and pete whittaker completed the first free ascent of century crack 5. Our gut feeling as soon as wed both topped out was 5. The recovery drink and the worlds hardest crack climbs. We kindly ask that you choose standard shipping where possible to reduce our environmental impact. The 25 greatest moments in yosemite climbing history.
An analysis including the first hand account of steve crusher bartlett. We do our best to process and ship orders within 12 business days mondayfriday, excluding holidays. The monster roof crack was first climbed by wide boyz tom. This is how the feature known as stoveleg crack got its name. Following the ascent of the infamous offwidth line, they were introduced to a number of other projects in. If your intuition tells you eddie bauer doesnt make guide gear, youre both right and wrong. Seven years after its first ascent, the notorious offwidth roof crack century crack 5. We specialise in hiking, cycling, running, camping, ski and triathlon clothing and gear designed for every south african environment. Traditional or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. Apr 03, 2016 now thats what i call a first ascent ep4 century crack 5. It was the crack that put those twothe wide boyzon the map. At the time, we were both pretty psyched to do the ffa seeing as wed spent 2 years training specifically for this project.
Hailing from salt lake city, parker may not have been on. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and. From prototype through production, one piece or thousands, ascent will provide your company with accurate parts and competitive pricing, delivered on time. I also suspect that without bauers mfgmktg guang, whittaker would give up the first ascent thing pronto. The crack was first attempted in 2001, and is considered the hardest offwidth crack climb in the world. Ok, so i suppose its finally time to lay our nuts on the table and come up with a grade for century crack. After his send, he noted, by rapping in, i discovered that the route can and should be climbed entirely on natural gear, all trad. Ascent precision gear corporation is a leader in the field of precision gear manufacturing. First ascent 2010 is sender films groundbreaking 6part series that takes you to the cutting edge of adventure. Nov 01, 2018 seven years after its first ascent, the notorious offwidth roof crack century crack 5. To erase that last issue of preplacement on the first ascent, clear that last 5% of imperfection and undergo the formations terrifically cruel meanings one more time.
Tom randall and pete whittakers first ascent of century crack, a 100foot offwidth roof in utah. Eddie bauers newest line of guideworthy gear bears the name first ascent, and it first hit shelves in 2009. Ukc news wideboyz climb century crack placing gear. If there is a blank wall, and theres no way to place gear, you bolt. The tour culminates in the first ascent of the ultimate offwidth test piece, century crack, the.
Century crack was first located and climbed by desert rat crusher. Whilst it would be ideal to have placed the gear on lead during each of. Ascent precision gear is a manufacturer of custom gears from 18 inch to 16 inch. The euphoria surrounding the first ascent of century crack had worn off and the pace of ascents seemed to have slowed. Nov 06, 2011 century crack part deux around a month ago, both pete and i made the first free ascent of century crack, at a vaguely guessed grade of 5. Dec 20, 2011 their hard work paid off on october 11, when they made the first ascent of century crack, a 100footlong, nearhorizontal wide crack underneath moabs white rim. Yes, stingray, a sharp tips crack in joshua trees crystalridden quartz monzonite, might only get 5. Their hard work paid off on october 11, when they made the first ascent of century crack, a 100footlong, nearhorizontal wide crack underneath moabs white rim. Now thats what i call a first ascent ep4 century crack 5. The pair received some criticism for preplacing the cams for their first ascent. He aided across this monumental roof crack solo, employing a back rope only for the final barrel and lip turn. The wide boyz are known for completing the first free ascent of century crack 5.
In 2006, trotter made the first free ascent of cobra crack 5. Wideboyz climb century crack placing gear ukc news. This route has been touted over the years as the ultimate wide crack monster and the potential first free ascensionist would grasp a prize beyond their wildest dreams. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century crack 5. Century crack is possibly the worlds hardest offwidth crackclimb, and was a well known project before tom and pete climbed it last month. I suspectedwith no knowledgethat the connection with whittaker mountaineering was the cord to reliable gear quality for first ascent, rather than any bauer heritage. Danny parker on his third ascent of century crack 5.
Renowned crack climber, author and wide boyz pete whittaker shares his new guide the definitive guide to crack climbing. For example, a trad bolted route may have bolts from. Century crack was first located and climbed by desert rat crusher bartlett in 2001 when on the way to climb a new desert tower. Century crack is possibly the worlds hardest offwidth crack climb, and was a well known project before tom and pete climbed it last month. In 2011, the wide boyzbritish offwidth aficionados tom randall and pete whittakermade the first ascent of century crack, a 5. Danny parker, 27, made waves at the end of last week announcing that he had repeated century crack, the interminable offwidth roof crack in canyonlands, utah, first reappointed by tom randall and pete whittaker in 2011. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of. Sep 30, 2019 pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century crack 5.
Hiking first ascent best outdoor clothing and gear. Danny parker has made the third ascent of the offwidth called century crack 5. Going back and doing century crack again now with gear in tow something that hard, repeating it had to be really really difficult to force oneself to undergo again. This in itself was a considerable achievement considering the committing nature of the area and the horrendous exposure on the final section.
Wild country crack school episode 5 gear and gear placement with the. The 120foot line was first freed by the wide boyzthe uk climbers tom randall and pete whittaker who in 2011, after. An analysis including the firsthand account of steve crusher bartlett. Tom randall climbing century crack placing the gear on lead. Their corporate ownership must have changed many times over. Tom and pete apprehend a wayward crack climber in canyonlandsits felt a little quiet the last couple of weeks. Century crack part deux around a month ago, both pete and i made the first free ascent of century crack, at a vaguely guessed grade of 5. Featuring dean potter, timmy oneill, sonnie trotter, and the amazing didier berthod on his quest for the first ascent of the cobra crack. Part of a series on climbing crack climbing in indian creek background golden age of alpinism history of rock climbing. The crack is considered the hardest offwidth crack climb in the world.
First ascent is south africas leading technical outdoor clothing and equipment brand. Crack climbing by pete whittaker sample pages by vertebrate. Pete whittaker and tom randall have climbed century crack at canyonlands, usa, without preplaced gear given the unique beauty and importance of this plum line though, it wouldnt surprise us if it were to receive a free ascent in the near future, this time without any preplaced gear. The bolts tend to be much farther apart than sport climbs. These crack climbing clinics are going to be filled with crack addicts. Crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. We specialize in spur, helical, antibacklash, and worm gearing. Two clinics jam packed with jamming technique, jamming gear, and plain old. The top 10 climbing stories of 2011 outside online. Following the ascent of the infamous offwidth line, they were introduced to a number of other projects in the area by local developer rob. The monster roof crack was first climbed by wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker in 2011 with the gear in place.
Danny parker made the third ascent of century crack 5. I first heard about century crack when tom and pete did the first ascent fall 2011. They returned later and sent it placing gear on lead. Tbp 144 pete whittaker of wide boyz fame on crack climbing. The tour culminates in the first ascent of the ultimate offwidth test piece, century crack, the worlds hardest offwidth. Oct 15, 2019 crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. First ascent of the bigger baron e10 7a, wimberry rocks, chew valley, england 2016. The brits trained specifically for offwidths for two years, then systematically repeated nearly all the hardest wide cracks in the u. Weve spent hours and hours debating this number amongst ourselves and its sort of been a tough decision, but also an easy one. Wideboyz return to century crack supertopo rock climbing.
There have been stories of superlative climbing events over the years that have been surrounded by grading controversies, climbing style arguments and conflicting personalities battling. Yesterday, pete and i completed a 2 year long journey a mission to make the first ascent of stevie hastons infamous century crack project in the utah desert. However, on a return visit to the white rim this month, tom and pete made the first ascent of a new route, that, in toms words, makes century crack look. Traditional bolted face climbing means the bolts were placed on lead andor with hand drills. Cycling first ascent best outdoor clothing and gear hiking.
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